We were up and ready really early, jumped in the 4x4's and headed up towards the highest mountain in Cuba. We were dropped off at the top of a mountain pass and started to trek to where Fidel had hidden, with Che, in the two years before the Revolution. To give you some idea of the terrain it took us nearly 5 hours to travel 6km - it was tough. 350 revolutionaries had held off 10,000 soldiers. Less than 500 tourist a year make the trek. But the forest and the views were fabulous.
We made it to the camp, witnessed the graves of those who died, saw the shack in which Che performed surgery, and the hut where Fidel had lived. All of us that had read anything beforehand knew that the hut contained the fridge that had been carried up the mountain, it worked on propane, so there were many jokes on the way there, but we learnt that the fridge had saved many lives by storing medicines etc and not just beer as we had imagined. It even bore the hallmarks of a bullet hole where a Batista plane had shot at it.
We were truly in awe the whole morning. We were shown an old photograph taken when Fidel was in the camp and I realised so was sat in the same seat! Our park guide was also very knowledgeable on all Cuban history, so we grilled him constantly. I had not appreciated what a hold the American mafia had on Havana prior to the Revolution, or the very close relationship Fidel had with Nelson Mandela. It is only the US that keep vetoing an end to the Blockade at the UN, seemingly because there are a strong and powerful contingent amongst the 2.5 million exiles in Miami who lobby Congress. As one Cuban so succinctly put it "America have forgiven Japan, Russia, Germany, Italy and Vietnam, and yet Cuba has never declared war on anyone, and they won't forgive us!". It is almost as if America are upset that their favourite toy has been taken away, after all the Cuban population is insignificant com paired with the US. But maybe I am being too simplistic and my American friends will have a different view point?
Fidel may not practice a philosophy that many others agree with but he has practically eradicated illiteracy, and they have a very good health care system. Unfortunately they were allied with the Soviet Block who have encountered their own problems, and as a result the trade has all but disappeared, causing an economic crisis. But the people remain loyal to Fidel and Raoul, his brother. Raoul has said he will step down in 2016, so who knows what will happen under their next leader.
By the time we got back we were desperate for a shower and some food, and were so pleased to watch a tropical storm rain down around us that if it had happened a few hours earlier would probably have made our earlier trek quite treacherous. It's all about timing!!!
Heading out of the mountains we did stop at a local house to hand over some basis essentials to a family in need. They were very welcoming and happy to chat about themselves and their lives, but we didn't linger long, as it felt a bit intrusive.
We finally arrived in Santiago de Cuba, the furthest south and east of this trip. As we checked into our hotel so did the Cuban football team!
For dinner that night we found a paladare, a family run restaurant, which used to be illegal because locals were not supposed to be in contact with tourists, but now there are no such concerns, although obviously the menu is very limited, so you always have rice and beans with plantain and then meat or fish. As is par for the course we had our own live music on tap and we decided it was time to practice the marraccas! Personally I think I am rather good!
After a couple of rum cocktails it seemed fitting to locate the Casa de la Trova for a bit of salsa! I was asked to dance by a Cuban, and apparently it's rude to refuse, so duly accepted. Although I suspect he was probably most grateful that it was one of the shorter songs!!!!
My head finally hit the pillow at about 1am, after a long but fabulous day.
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